Best climbing sling anchor reddit The discussion over nylon vs. 5 can vary from 0. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. One short one for a 3rd hand when rappelling and a long length doubled around my waist as a chalk bag belt. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. This is a self-equalization anchor. I tie in with the rope on a multipitch but when sport climbing I will use a sling for each bolt. The best personal anchor will always be the climbing rope. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Aid climbing). We are climbing on the bottom chord of the truss, and the top chord is a round tube that can be wrapped with a tape 1. If your anchor is low or far away from the edge it is still possible to use the GriGri but I find it more comfortable to belay from my harness with an ATC or with a munter hitch on the anchor when the anchor is set back from the edge of the cliff. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. In the United States, static anchor material (nylon slings, dyneema slings, Metolius PAS) are very common, people use them, and are fine. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. Gotcha, so really only approaching danger in a factor 2 scenario. Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical knowledge. I find cordellete easier to manage for anchors where a single 120cm sling is insufficient, as you can almost always make a cordellete work. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. See full list on outdoorgearlab. You might find yourself in a life-and-death situation where you have to bail off a rock with a sling thrown over-top. I think it's important to keep in mind it's best to have a comfortable working level with several anchor methods. This isn't a "you will immediately die" type of thing, and also differs by area you climb in. As always, I recommend you do some research on anchor building. Second question, would it be bad form to just leave it girth hitched there while I climb, clipped into a gear loop so it doesnt dangle? Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. (Photo: Derek DeBruin) 2) Now pass the entire The demos are absolute worst case scenarios - to take the sort of falls they subjected the slings to, you'd have to be climbing above the anchor while still attached and then free-fall. Just like rock climbing, it's best to set the anchor below the lip. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. Rather than pointing out the fact that clove hitch is the standard/best practice advocated by basically every climbing association I can think of (DAV, AAC, AMGA. IMO no loops are required on a gear sling. Standing around for 10min trying to untie a frozen, weighted dyneema sling is bad style. Maybe it's safe, but it's a knot I've used a lot to secure things (sails) for the reason that it's extremely easy to untie. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. I’m in a climbing and rappelling class right now and we were given a problem of how to safely set an anchor point using multiple smaller trees (hint given to us was 4 trees). When creating an anchor where there are bolt with rings, some people tend to put their carabiners through the bolts and other chose to put them through the last rings which are connected to the bolts. I started climbing before the dedicated PAS gizmos (loops sewn together) became a thing, and people used their daisy chains all the time for single pitch, instead of fiddling with slings. don't get cordelette if you plan on trad climbing later, John Long is an awesome climber, 30 damn years ago, climbing has gone a long way since, cordelette is the slowest, most noob anchor ever, build your anchors out of slings, it will be much more versatile and faster in the future and getting familiar with this type of anchor in easy waters Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. proper sequence: clip into the anchors with a sling to each bolt pull up about 10' of slack If I intend on using a nylon sling as a PAS for simple anchor work at single pitch TR routes, do I girth hitch it to the belay loop or the tie in points? My gut says tie in points. Hi guys and girls, I was wondering what width of prusik cord you all use to make yourself safe when setting up top ropes and… If there is nothing to make anchor higher up I'll use maillon to rappel. Keep in mind that while rappeling the force on the anchor is many times greater than your weight. This is being setup for top rope where the forces will be way less. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. If your anchor is too busy it just makes it more dangerous in the long-run because the person cleaning can get easily flustered by a crowded anchor. it depends on where you're climbing. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. When you are building a top rope anchor with a quad or anything else, something has to connect the quad to the different anchor points and is probably also necessary to extend the anchor over a ledge — was asking whether girth hitching each of the two anchor points was better/worse then looping them each with a sling and tie-omg off. Say I get to the chains of a sport route and find a comfortable stance to set my rappel, but the only soft gear I have with me is a 120cm sling that is too long to use as an anchor. This is sport climbing 101 and it's one of many efficient and safe ways to clean. Thanks for the info! I made that comment under the assumption that this was a personal anchor and not a climbing anchor. Generally you never need a 240 sling if you're able to be creative with anchor building, but a lot of people like them because it can help simplify things. Curious about one thing. Clip 1 locking carabiner onto each of the 3 anchor points. Sport/trad climbing above a single draw is okay because you aren't leaving it there for long, but a top rope anchor in a gym sits there and gets loaded and unloaded hundreds of times. A 7-8mil nylon cord would be a better choice for making anchors in general and when you get more experience you can figure out what's worth saving weight on. However, creating an attachment point for a treehouse is a different type of load (potentially?) than an attachment point for climbing. Procedures will change depending on the situation, so if all you have learned is step-1 to step-n, you'll find yourself in a position where step-3 doesn't apply and you'll get stuck. After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. Is there a right or wrong way? What would be the safest and best for the equipment? Thanks I'd just buy a 90cm sling and a locker. I used to use a variety of the above, until I went climbing in Europe. The reduced force on the sling from the knot is not important. rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. Sorry if my wording was confusin. Dyneema. You cannot do this setup with only 2 anchor points. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. You could take a factor 2 fall on a knotted nylon sling and not break it. Pad the tree and use it as a monolith. (though usually when there is no way to make anchor higher the topmost bolts are big rounded ones). (the sliding x is not redundant in the sling). 3 to 0. Sometimes that means untying it and using a figure 8 on a bite on each bolt to get the right length, but for me, having that option makes the cordellete superior to a sling for anchors without uniform spacing. And yes we are scared of falling. I usually build a normal anchor and clip in a figure 8 on a bight to the master point. Essentially when the force on the rope is greater than can be held by the belay device the rope starts to slip through creating heat until enough energy is absorbed that the device can hold steady again. While many other slings will also work for this purpose, we are convinced that the Open Loop Sling is the ideal choice. You do this by securing yourself to one locker on two strands (with a clove hitch and the rope) and place your belay device on the other two strands to belay up your follower. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. I only bring double length slings if I know a pitch is going to be particularly difficult to manage rope drag on. My question is how can I distribute the weight evenly among those trees and what knots would be best to secure it. (always use a short prusik on the break strand) Climbing Slings. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. It's annoying when the bar tack hangs up on the biner. For a personal anchor this is more than "good enough". That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). Those cam placements are surely jankier than the huge trees next to them. I always advocate learning principles rather than procedures in climbing. Get the scoop on how it stands up to the competition in our review of climbing slings. . The slings could be looped multiple times over the biner attached to the bolt or knotted to equalize. For situations that will put a lot of abuse on gear, like top rope anchors or multi-pitch anchors, I like cordelette or tied nylon runners. The home of Climbing on reddit. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Swapping leads means I'm climbing with one of my buddies I'm dialed with and know they understand assessing anchors but when climbing where I'm leading others the shelf is usually just my personal anchor point to allow my second to have all the master point they need without worrying about creating a cluster before I'm off again. 305 votes, 96 comments. Say I've arrived at a two-bolt anchor, but I'm not 100% sure the bolts are bomber. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. Crypto 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. Tying knots in Dyneema webbing was proven to have reduced the total amount of supported force by as much as half. So a PAS is still useful to some people who lower at crags. You'd have to be pretty daft/desperate to get into that situation. e. Salathe Wall for example is a walk off, but due to the height and difficulty, bailing in common so nearly all anchors are bolted. Jul 10, 2023 ยท A personal anchor system (PAS), sometimes called a lanyard or tether, is a piece of climbing equipment that directly connects the climber to a climbing anchor system. I was taught to use the clove hitch (with the rope) to tie in at the anchor. niz rcdfhqm akvj qontj qioqwfb ojw tftpf kaf uzuxn ufxbi wtnfl lzf kmoq uqmmc mzixbi